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Nina Caprez flys up Grand Capucin Voie Petit
20/07/2019 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez flys up Grand Capucin Voie Petit
Swiss climber Nina Caprez has made a fast repeat of Voie Petit, up Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc. Established in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit, this 450m 8b multi-pitch was freed by Alexander Huber...
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
10/07/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0
Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and...
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to walter bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka,...
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent!
23/02/2019 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent!
On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later,...
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special...
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV
11/07/2018 - Alpinism
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV
32-year-old mountaineer Italian Maurizio Giordano from the Aosta Military Expedition perished while climbing Gasherbrum IV in Karakorum, Pakistan.
 Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the great ski tour traverse of the Alps begins
Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the great ski tour traverse of the Alps begins
17 March 2018 is the starting date of the Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the immense ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Viena to Nice following in the footsteps of the historic 1971 Austrian team comprised of Robert Kittl,...
Cerro Adela Sur, new Romanian variation by Vlad Capusan, Zsolt Török in Patagonia
23/01/2018 - Alpinism
Cerro Adela Sur, new Romanian variation by Vlad Capusan, Zsolt Török in Patagonia
Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Zsolt Török have added a new variation to Filo Este on Cerro Adela Sur in Patagonia. The logical new line was climbed in 34 hours.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would...
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
04/03/2017 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two...
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the...
Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum
14/02/2017 - Alpinism
walter bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum
In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist walter bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
18/01/2017 - Alpinism
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
28/12/2016 - Alpinism
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25),...
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.